Heres a fitting kit to plumb your false bottom to the ball valve sticking out inside your brew kettle or mash tun. This kit is all food grade made from high temp silicone tubing and Stainless Steel only. There is no brass or galvanized steel. Includes a special Female 1/2" NPT Stainless Steel 3/8" barb, 6" of 3/8" High Temp Tubing and two stainless steel worm clamps. Will plumb a false bottom up to 15". This kit will plumb 98% of all false bottoms needing a female end to connect to the tun or kettle hardware. The included special Female (FPT) barb eliminates the need for a coupler and helps deal with a certain ball valve problem not enough thread left to get the coupler on. This kit is also available in Male.
This kit will plumb 98% of all false bottoms needing a female end to connect to the tun or kettle hardware. The included special Female (FPT) barb eliminates the need for a coupler and helps deal with a certain ball valve problem not enough thread left to get the coupler on. This kit is also available in Male.
BACKGROUND: A concave or dome type false bottom comes bare with only the 3/8" barb, elbow, nut, and gasket pre-assembled. It does not have the plumbing kit with it. This is that kit and fills your need for a short length (6" ought to do it) of silicone tubing to go between the barb in the center of the false bottom and your cooler or kettle side hardware.
Aside from the one nut touching the cooler, the inside plumbing components dont really need to be taped or even torqued down. Just thread them on there a couple spins by hand so you can take them apart easily to clean the unit. Be sure to use our stainless steel clamps rather than galvanized, although you might find you dont need clamps at all if your heat rated tubing is tight enough. If it loosens over time you will have to replace it or start using the clamps.